Ask any dermatologist what the best wrinkle-reducing ingredient is and were willing to bet our firstborn theyll say retinoids. But theres a gentler, slightly more under-the-radar alternative out there: Derms also love peptides for their skin-smoothing benefits (namely, their ability to minimize lines without causing irritation). If retinoids like retinol and tretinoin are the Regina George of skin care, then peptides are the Cady Heronmore chill, nicer to your face, but still totally worthy of being the star of the show.

The benefits of peptides are legitimate, with plenty of science to back them up. And while dermatologists often recommend them as a substitute for retinoids, particularly for people who cant tolerate the latter, they also play nicely with most other actives (including, yes, retinoids, as well as vitamin C). In other words, you shouldnt have a problem working them into your routine.

The caveat? Peptides is a surprisingly broad category and shopping for the best products can require a bit more legwork than you might expect. Thats why we asked a few experts to explain exactly what to look for when picking peptide serums and moisturizersand break down the nitty-gritty of what they can do for your skin.

Peptides are short chains of amino acids that are the building blocks of various proteins, David Kim, MD, a board-certified dermatologist at Idriss Dermatology in New York City, tells SELF. They play a key role in a variety of processes throughout your body; when it comes to your skin, peptides are important because they help make up the proteins collagen and elastin. Collagen is like the scaffolding for your skin, giving it support and structure so it stays firm, while elastin keeps it stretchy and, yep, elastic, Dr. Kim says.

Both collagen and elastin production innately start to decrease around your late 20s or early 30s, when signs of aging such as wrinkles and laxity can start to pop up. Thats where peptides come in: They can help counteract some of these effects, he explains. To that point.

Heres where things get a little more complicated. Not all peptides are created equal. As a general rule, theyre used in skin care for their ability to smooth fine lines and wrinkles, Angela Lamb, MD, a board-certified dermatologist and associate professor of dermatology at Mount Sinai in New York City, tells SELF.

Depending on the type of peptides youre talking about, however, they can also have other beneficial effects, including decreasing inflammation and acting as antioxidants, Mona Foad, MD, a board-certified dermatologist in Cincinnati, tells SELF. (There are even antimicrobial peptides that have been shown to have wound-healing properties, though theyre less likely to be used in skin care.)

Topical peptides are typically classified into these four categories, all of which you can find in serums, moisturizers, and the like (albeit some more commonly than others).

Read the original here:

What to Know About Peptides, the Retinol Alternative Dermatologists Love | SELF - Self