When it comes to defense against fine lines and maintaining a healthy glow, theres no ingredient in skincare more lauded than retinol. The irony? Even though the revolutionary youth-enhancing active is a mainstay of drugstores, department store counters, and dermatologist offices alike, it still manages to mystify. And thus, its often underutilized or misused.

Here, experts break down how to carefully incorporate the powerhouse ingredient into your skincare routine to achieve a supernaturally fresh-faced complexion, now and for decades to come.

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To bring it back to the basics, retinolalongside other retinoids, such as retinoic acid and retinyl palmitateis essentially a derivative of vitamin A, which is one of the bodys key nutrients for boosting cell turnover. Marisa Garshick, MD, board-certified dermatologist at MDCS Dermatology explains the retinols must be converted to retinoic acid, which means it can take longer than those prescribed retinoids and can be a less irritating option for the skin that has many benefits.

Retinol is a powerhouse of an ingredient for a reason: it targets most of our top skin concerns. Its added to topical skincare products to promote skin renewal, brighten skin tone, reduce acne, and boost the collagen production, explains New York City-based dermatologist Whitney Bowe, MD. It also functions like an antioxidant to help address free radical damage, which leads to visible signs of aging. The way board-certified dermatologist Francesca Fusco, MD, sees it, its the ingredient that does it all in dermatology, both cosmetically and medically. I consider it a gold standard in skincare and often explain it to my patients as something that sweeps away dead skin cells, clogged pores, and dull skin, she explains.

Because it helps regulate skin cell turnover, it improves the appearance of both skin tone and skin texture, adds Garshick. By regulating skin cell turnover and encouraging new skin cells to come to the surface, it helps to resurface the skin and give an overall improved appearance to the skin tone and reduce the appearance of discoloration.

CeraVe

Skin Renewing Retinol Serum

Eve Lom

Time Retreat Intensive Night Cream

So whats the difference between retinol, retinoids, and all the other vitamin-A derivatives? As Angela Lamb, MD, board-certified dermatologist explains, retinoid is a catch-all term for all vitamin A-based products on the skin. The different types of retinoids are just different forms of vitamin A and can vary in strength and are used for different things. Isotretinoin (the most common type youre probably familiar with is Accutane) is an oral retinoid medication that is used to treat acne. Tretinoin (or retinoic acid), Lamb says, is the most comm prescription retinoid on the market that can target both acne and signs of anti-aging. With retinol, it is an over-the-counter retinoid product that is not as irritating as the prescribed options and used to improve uneven skin tone, pigmentation, and texture.

Thirty has long been the banner year for introducing retinol into ones routine, but many women are starting before then, motivated by early signs of aging, such as sun spots or crows feet, or simply eager to get a head start and utilize the latest technologiesunder the careful watch of their dermatologist. Your mid-twenties are a great time to start using retinol, says Ellen Marmur, MD, New York City-based board-certified dermatologist. Many patients who have used it for years swear by it.

But the best time to start retinol really depends on your specific skincare concerns. For example, if youre dealing with acne in your teens, Garshick says that it can be a good time to start looking into incorporating this ingredient into your routine. For preventive measures against fine lines and other signs of aging (such as fine lines, wrinkles, dark spots, discoloration, etc.), youll want to start in your 20s and 30s. To treat those signs of aging skin when they actually occur, you should start in your 40s and 50s.

PCA Skin Retinol Treatment for Sensitive Skin

U Beauty Resurfacing Compound

Shani Darden Skin Care Retinol Reform

Kate Somerville +Retinol Vitamin C Moisturizer

Balance is critical, cautions Bowe. Retinol can be very irritating if used too frequently or if the formulation is too strong for your skin. She recommends starting off with a pea-sized amount of a low percentage over-the-counter formula (.01 percent to 0.03 percent), and using it two times per week, slowly increasing the usage to give the skin a chance to acclimate. Moreover, you should skip your retinol product on the day before you exfoliate (Bowe recommends exfoliating two to three times per week). Exfoliating is abrasive and irritating, and you do not want to compound the skin irritation by heightening your skins sensitivity, she says, adding that if youre getting certain in-office treatments like lasers, microneedling, microdermabrasion, you will want to take a break from your retinol. In the spirit of not overdoing it, theres a spate of new time-release formulas fit for skin types prone to redness or breakouts. Theyre a good option for people who have sensitive skin, explains Fusco. It releases the active ingredient over time and may offer less irritation. In terms of prescription retinol versus something over the counter, the former is much more potent with a higher percentage of retinol, and one may graduate to it over time, says Bowe. Once your skin learns to tolerate such a strong ingredient, Garshick says you can work your way up to using retinol nightly.

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SkinMedica Age Defense Retinol Complex .25

Marie Veronique Gentle Retinol Night Serum

Drunk Elephant A-Passioni Retinol Cream

There are certain side effects that come with using retinol that are considered normal as your skin will have to adjust to the active ingredient. Garshick says to expect some mild irritation, dryness, and sun sensitivity when youre first introducing the ingredient into your routine. But if youre experiencing any intense flaking, redness, or burning sensations, its best to shy away from retinol altogether.

Excerpt from:

Retinol and Retinoids: 9 Things You Should Know Before Using - Vogue